Tis the season! The season for respiratory infections just in time for Christmas.
Last year, I ended up in the ER for acute mastoiditis (an infection in the mastoid bone behind the ear.) This year it's laryngitis. After listening to it fade away over the weekend, I could feel it settling into my chest. When you have allergic asthma and are on biologic meds for psoriatic arthritis (that interfere with the immune response) it's important to jump onto anything that might become an infection. My body has very few defenses.
I'll be back to normal soon, but I've been meaning to get an update out there before Christmas, so we'll work with what we have!
I know I can't be the only one humming along right now, right?
One of the most rewarding and yet most frustrating things crafters with wool and/or animal fiber allergies in general deal with is finding safe yarn and fibers. Every allergy is different! But, based on my personal experience as someone highly allergic to all animal fibers, here are a few of...
Yet again, in the middle of a single crochet row, and I'll be working into the next stitch.
Popcorn stitches are usually in double crochet, but they can vary based on the pattern.
Here's my first double crochet stitch. The rest will be worked into the same space.
A total of five double crochet stitches...
Lengthen that working loop a bit, and remove your hook.
Count back to the first double crochet (in this case five) and insert your hook into that stitch.
Pull the working loop all the way through...
... pulling the double crochet stitches into a circle.
You'll ignore the stitches in the circle when working your next row, as the only stitch that counts is the first one you pulled the working loop through.
Here's how it looks from the front.
And now you know how to safely navigate through the forest of puffs, bobbles and popcorns. Clear as mud? Then let me show you!
As always, please let me know if I can answer any questions. Until next time, choose to be kind.
This week let's focus on a popular technique for afghans and blankets... Corner to Corner aka C2C.
It's wonderful in solids, stripes, and "graphgans" - colorwork charts/graphs. Since there are more questions about working a chart/graph, I'll follow one here. But feel free to crochet along in a solid color and skip the color changes!
For me, the coolest thing about working corner to corner is the fabric...
Stitches worked diagonally make for softly rippled yet solid texture.
It is important to view your graph the same way you'll be working it, in this case on the diagonal, RS rows from right to left, WS rows from left to right.
I like to use two row markers, one above and one below my working row.
C2C always begins with increase rows, where you begin with chain 6 and work your first block in chains 4-5-6 from the hook and end with one last block worked into the far edge of the block in the previous row. This gives you one additional block on each end of your work and creates the smooth bottom and left edges.
Here's how to work a basic C2C block:
Find the chain 3 in the next block in the previous row, this is where you'll begin.
Slip stitch into that space:
Chain 3:
Work 3 double crochet (dc) into the same space, around the chain 3 in the row below.
Slip stitch into the next block and continue across the row. If you need to change colors for your next block, do it in the last yarn over of the last dc so that your slip stitch is in the new color.
Once you reach the widest point of your piece, you'll work in decrease rows, which means your row begins with slip stitches to the next chain 3 space:
Continues across the row as usual:
And ends with a slip stitch in the corner of the last block in the previous row.
Rather than work another block, chain one and turn.... slip stitching back to the chain 3 space to begin your next row.
When you've worked your final block, rotate the square so you can work one round of sc around all 4 sides.
This will smooth out the edge and make it easier to join or finish with an edging.
I spent some time in my thoughtful spot this week, and I just have to say something out loud.
It's time the majority of decent people speak up and do their part to stop the hate. It's a global issue coming to a head - but don't let them fool you. They are not the majority! They just grab headlines while the rest of us try to be polite.
WIPs:
Atlanticus CAL in rouge and violette - Premier Sweet Roll in Wild Cherry/Cherry and Baby Bee Sweet Delight in purples. See the Hooked on Sunshine CAL The Penny Drops CAL - Tunisian crochet, in Yarn Bee Sugarwheel in Go Go Cocoa, and I Love This Yarn in Coffee.
If you've ever wanted to learn Tunisian Crochet, a great way to get started is with practice squares. Squares in cotton yarns make great dishcloths, and squares in other yarns are great for blankets or charitable square collections.
If you are ambitious, two quares would make great pair os basic fingerless gloves like we did with our slip stitch practice.
Be sure to check out the tutorial for how to work Tunisian forward and return passes.
To practice Tunisian Simple Stitch (tss):
Chain 26
1. Work a Foundation Row - forward pass: insert hook into second chain and pull up a loop. Repeat for each remaining chain. (I like to use the back ridge loop of the chain to leave a nice teardrop shaped edge on the bottom.) You'll have 26 loops on your hook. Do not turn!
Return/closing pass - All return passes begin with a chain one. This will give you space for your next forward pass. The rest of the return pass removes two loops at a time. Chain 1 though the last loop on your hook only - i.e. your loop count won’t change. (Yarn Over (YO) and pull through two loops) repeat across until there is only one loop remaining. Do not turn!
Finished foundation row (including forward and return passes)
2. Insert hook from right to left under the second vertical bar - where the hook is pointing here:
Insert hook under each remaining vertical bar, pulling up a loop each time.
When you get to the last vertical bar, you can see that there’s a little more space before you reach the edge… this is where that chain one at the beginning of your return passes comes in handy. Insert your hook through that chain one and pull up your last loop.
Repeat passes 2 and 3 to length.m Mine is 22 rows.
Work one row of traditional slip stitch or single crochet to finish or "bind off" your last row.
Remember this is stitch practice! Don't worry about little mistakes here and there. I promise the dishes won't notice. ;o)
You can see a couple of mine here... and here.
Optional edging: Finish your last row with single crochet, and keep working in single crochet around all four sides of your square.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
To practice Tunisian Knit Stitch (tks):
Chain 26
1.Work a foundation row. You’ll have one loop on your hook.
2.Starting with the second vertical bar (insert hook from front to back through the vertical loop that forms the vertical bar, pull up a loop) across. When you get to the last stitch, insert hook under both loops of the chain1 rather than through it.
Another way to find the vertical loop until you get used to seeing it is to literally grab it and twist a little to see both sides of the loop.
Here's what it looks like from the top once the hook is inserted through the vertical loop.
Work one row of traditional slip stitch or single crochet to finish or bind off your last row.
Again, if you look closely you can see my mistakes change the texture of the fabric. This is ok for practice squares so I left them for you to see that, well, we all make them!
Optional edging: Finish your last row with single crochet, and keep working in single crochet around all four sides of your square.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.
Hope this little taste of Tunisian crochet gets you "hooked" on trying more complicated stitches and patterns. Please let me know if I can help you find any answers... til next time!
